118 min listen
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
ratings:
Length:
122 minutes
Released:
May 3, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, why chronic pain isn’t “just in our head”, how to rehab finger and elbow injuries, and other lifestyle interventions that help with recovery.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/heth-jenningsNuggets:4:10 – Heth’s background in physical therapy, functional medicine, and pain science6:55 – A new paradigm for understanding pain8:22 – “It’s all in my head.” and “It’s always real.”9:40 – Lorimer Moseley, and the hammer in the neck story14:50 – Red light blue light15:55 – The leg scratch 17:40 – Chronic vs acute pain21:09 – The mountain illustration of tissue capacity, the pain buffer, and how the brain’s overprotection leads to chronic pain24:19 – Rehabbing chronic elbow pain28:25 – Graded motor imagery using the Recognize App, visualization, and mirror therapy36:35 – “The point is always to get people back to moving.” 37:58 – Heth’s example of the brain loving us too much, and removing fear41:00 – The role of inflammation, assessing tissue damage, and rehabbing fingers and elbows47:28 – Heth’s recent finger injury, and how he rehabbed it50:35 – “Don’t flare up, but when you do, don’t freak out about it.”51:48 – What to do after a flare-up 53:31 – Heth’s protocol for rehabbing his finger injury56:02 – The theory behind eccentrics for tendon injury rehab57:04 – How do address different types of finger injuries59:27 – Heth’s thoughts on climbing open-handed while recovering from a pulley injury1:01:03 – Mirror therapy for amputees1:02:50 – Elbow rehab1:07:52 – Preventing recurring injuries, giving our bodies credit, and bioplasticity1:15:32 – What Heth has learned from his injuries, how he plans to move forward, and collagen + vitamin C1:19:50 – Heth’s thoughts on supplemental exercises for injury prevention1:23:57 – Heth’s thoughts on including finger ups or other isotonic exercises1:25:32 – Chronic inflammation, gut health, and stress1:28:35 – Why Heth recommends a low carb diet for many of his clients1:32:33 – Heth’s thoughts on carbs for metabolically healthy people and athletes1:38:37 – Carb backloading1:44:39 – Heth’s thoughts on counting macros and daily protein1:47:56 – Krispy Cream doughnuts, birthday cake, and popcorn and coke1:50:28 – Breathing and meditation, accepting where we are, and being kind to ourselves1:57:00 – Heth’s website, and social media2:00:26 – Gratitude
Released:
May 3, 2021
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health: Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) by The Nugget Climbing Podcast