118 min listen
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
ratings:
Length:
167 minutes
Released:
Mar 7, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Description
Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16, how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/martin-kellerNuggets:0:08:13 – Martin’s “mini-epic” on ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/160:14:02 – Finding inspiration in a project0:17:55 – Martin’s first bouldering trip, and being a slow learner0:23:28 – Preferring really cool projects to just sending another random climb, and asking what people like most about climbing0:25:34 – Being able to jump up a grade when you find something that fits you0:28:13 – Turning something ugly into something gracefully, and turning the impossible into something possible0:35:03 – Do whatever resonates with you, and climbing lots of new things on trips0:38:13 – Why willpower isn’t enough, and making your brain like what you do0:41:28 – Your brain wants you to do easy things, and how to trick your unconscious into wanting to train0:46:00 – How to get rid of cognitive friction, and tricks to make your brain want to go training0:51:39 – How to use breathwork to ramp up the nervous system for training0:54:20 – Long term vs short term stress0:58:16 – Using light to upregulate the nervous system, and dimming lights before sleep1:02:23 – How body temperature affects sleep, and avoiding screen time in the evening1:03:59 – Food before bed, and including carbs with dinner to help with sleep1:06:15 – What Martin does on his project when the conditions are bad, how he “trains” on his projects, and setting mini-goals1:16:40 – The Russian mindset, why more isn’t always better, and the difference between us and the pros1:20:52 – Why active rest days are important, why you should get a dog, and why doing good things for your climbing is also good for your life1:26:13 – Opportunity costs, choosing priorities, and being flexible with your training1:29:04 – Martin’s strategy for hard power endurance boulders, and bringing the sections of the boulder down to 80% effort (or 8 RPE)1:36:13 – Martin’s latest project on the Highlander boulder1:37:41 – Key Takeaway: Ask yourself what you really like about climbing and bouldering, and being proud of yourself for building a life around climbing1:39:48 – Letting out the steam1:42:32 – Why collecting excuses (explanations) can be helpful1:45:13 – Martin’s story about berating himself on Ninja Skills Sit, and learning how to speak more kindly to yourself1:51:13 – The example of spilling water on your laptop, and talking to yourself like you would talk to a friend1:55:43 – Martin’s hamstring injury, sunk costs, and how irrational our brains actually are2:02:01 – Figuring out what is important for yourself, and magic bullets2:05:43 – Being the first one to bring a battery-powered van to the boulders2:07:23 – How changing his mindset has helped Martin climb all of his hardest boulders after age 402:13:13 – The benefits of cold showers, and connecting dopamine to actions2:20:16 – Patron question from Nicole: How does Martin deal with making negative progress on projects? When does he walk away?2:36:05 – The pressure we create for ourselves2:41:07 – How to connect with Martin2:43:18 – Final words
Released:
Mar 7, 2022
Format:
Podcast episode
Titles in the series (100)
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health: Ian Yurdin is a Smith Rock local who climbs hard and has had a successful career developing footwear for companies like Adidas, FiveTen, and Solomon. We talked about his career in product creation and his transition to consulting, starting a restaurant with his wife Kristin, his history with ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’, measuring rock temperature to quantify climbing conditions, health issues, and the things he is most grateful for. *NOTE: Ian had actually clipped the 13th bolt on ‘To Bolt’ on his heartbreaking try. (He mistakenly said it was the 12th in the interview.) by The Nugget Climbing Podcast